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Conference 2010

The 2010 Pasold Conference on Textile Distribution Networks, 1700-1945 was held in conjunction with the Centre for the History of Retailing and Distribution (CHORD) at the University of Wolverhampton. The lead organiser was Dr Laura Ugolini of CHORD: 

Pasold Research Fund and CHORD joint conference

Distribution Networks for Textiles and Dress, c. 1700-1945

University of Wolverhampton, UK

8 and 9 September 2010


Programme and abstracts are available at:


Day 1

8 September 2010

9.30 - 10.30 Registration and coffee

10.30 - 11.15 Welcome and Plenary session

Dilys Blum, Philadelphia Museum of Art, Elsa Schiaparelli and the American Market

11.30 - 13.00 Clothing cultures

Susan Vincent, University of York, ‘Please can you obtain for me?’: shopping by proxy

Christine Ruane, University of Tulsa, The retailing of dress in Imperial Russia

Jennifer Le Zotte, University of Virginia, Selling salvation and gouging goodwill: the shift in charitable ideals in the early twentieth century United States

11.30 - 13.00 Fashion and taste in eighteenth-century Europe

Bruno Blondé and Laura Van Aert, University of Antwerp, Au Magasin de Paris. Retailing textiles and changing consumer practices in eighteenth-century Antwerp

Jon Stobart, University of Northampton, Taste and textiles: selling fashion in eighteenth-century provincial England

Natacha Coquery, University of Nantes, Luxury, market, fashion and revolution. Textile advertisements in the Journal of Paris, 1790-1794

13.00 - 14.00 Lunch

14.00 - 15.30 Colonial commerce

Robert S. DuPlessis, Swarthmore College, Gender and textile retailing in the eighteenth-century British and French Atlantic

Damayanthie Eluwawalage, State University of New York, Oneonta, International comparisons: advertising of clothing in the nineteenth-century Western Australia

Dianne Lawrence,University of Lancaster, ‘In a hot climate a pretty frock is a great asset’: finding, changing and exchanging dress in colonial societies

14.00 - 15.30 Advertising, merchandising and branding

Clare Rose, ?, The pre-history of brands: branding before 1914

Claire Nally, University of Sunderland, Fashion as freedom: the flapper phenomenon and advertising culture in twentieth-century Dublin

Rebecca Arnold, Courtauld Institute of Art, Selling sportswear: fashion, retail and ready-to-wear in 1930s New York

15.30 - 16.00 Coffee

16.00 - 17.30 Royal and aristocratic wardrobes

Tracey Wedge, University of Southampton, Fit to be seen by the Queen: The mechanisms of procurement for the wardrobe of Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester (1532/3-1588)

Maria Hayward, University of Southampton, Supplying Charles II: an analysis of the network of suppliers working for the king’s wardrobe of the robes (1660-1685)

Kate Strasdin, University of Southampton, Royal retail: Queen Alexandra and her acquisition of dress (1863-1910)

16.00 - 17.30 Distribution and transport

Nadia Fernández de Pinedo Echevarría, Universidad Autónoma de Madrid and Emiliano Fernández de Pinedo Fernández, Universidad del País Vasco, An approach to the distribution of foreign textiles in the Spanish market at the beginning of the eighteenth century

Victoria Mitchell, Norwich University College of the Arts, From pattern sample to wedding dress: an example from eighteenth century Norwich

Pia Lundqvist and Anna Brismark, University of Gothenburg, A diversified distribution of textiles in 19th century Sweden

circa 20.00 Conference dinner, Novotel Hotel



9 September 2010

9.00 – 9.30 Coffee

9.30 - 11.00 Second-hand textiles and clothing in early-modern Europe

Organisers: Jon Stobart, University of Northampton and Ilja Van Damme, University of Antwerp

Sara Pennell, Roehampton University, Making the bed in early eighteenth-century England

Georg Stoeger, University of Salzburg, Urban markets for used clothing – examples from eighteenth-century Central Europe.

Dries Lyna & Ilja Van Damme, University of Antwerp, The circulation of used textiles and clothing: the function of auction sales within the distribution networks of the Southern Netherlands (17th-19th centuries)

9.30 – 11.00  Fashion

Seija Johnson, K.H. Renlund - Central Ostrobothnia Provincial Museum, Kokkola, Finland; University of Jyväskylä, Finland, International trade and fashion in a Finnish port town in 1750-1870

Stefanie Watzka, Johannes Gutenberg University of Mainz, Tailor’s dummy or business woman? – the actress and fashion in the late 19th century

Maria Nesterova, State University of cinema and television, Saint-Petersburg, The “trophy” garments as way to change the image of Soviet people

11.00 - 11.30 Plenary session

Lesley Miller, Victoria & Albert Museum, Material Marketing: How Lyonnais Silk Manufacturers Sold Silks, 1660-1789

11.30 - 12.00 Coffee

12.00 - 13.00 Commercial spaces

Peter McNeil and Paula Hamilton, University of Technology Sydney, Culture, Work and Economy in the Surry Hills (Sydney) Clothing Trades c1900-1945

Bronwen Edwards, Leeds Metropolitan University, “Am I to understand that you actually have a branch shop on the Aquitania?” British menswear retailers and the transatlantic market place in the mid twentieth century

12.00 - 13.00 Consumption

Beatrice Zucca Micheletto, University of Turin, Selling the goods of the marriage trousseau: a shame or a resource? The role of textile goods in household economy in 18th century Turin

Yuki Yamauchi, Hitotsubashi University, Why was Meisen, Japan's traditional working clothe, accepted well in the market as everyday clothes and stylish garments between1900 to1930?

13.00 - 14.00 Lunch

14.00 - 15.30 Demand and desire in the African textile trade, c.1700-1900

Colleen Kriger, University of North Carolina, Cotton currencies and multi-lateral trade, Upper Guinea coast, ca. 1700.

Pedro Machado, Indiana University, Mobile threads: cloth, South Asia and Africa in the Western Indian Ocean in the 18th and 19th centuries

Samuel Sanchez, Laboratoire SEDET, Université de Paris-Diderot, Paris, Textile trading networks in Western Madagascar, 19th to the early 20th centuries

Sarah Fee, Royal Ontario Museum, Beyond Indian cottons: the trade in Omani cloth and fibers to Madagascar and the Western Indian Ocean, 1750-1900

14.00 - 15.30 Art, Marketing and Display

Jeanie Sinclair, Royal College of Art, Cryséde: interwar innovations in fashion retail

Stephanie Amerian, University of California, Los Angeles, The art of selling style at Lord & Taylor, 1924-1945

Lesley Whitworth, University of Brighton Design Archives, The American notebooks: Natasha Kroll's 1948 US retail research trip

15.30 conference ends


For further information, please contact Dr Laura Ugolini, HLSS, University of Wolverhampton, MC Building, Wolverhampton, WV1 1LY, UK.

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